SUPER UPS Battery Hack- Mikes Inventions

The SUPER UPS Battery Hack,. Have you ever wanted your electronics to run longer on battery power? I have. So now they do. I swapped the tiny SLA batteries in my APC battery backup for two deep cycle batteries to get ludicrous run time. This procedure would work with CyberPower brand just as well as the APC that I have. The key is to match the input voltage to whatever your UPS is using now, which is most likely 24v. I’ve never seen anything other than that. You’ll need 24 volts worth of batteries, a UPS, some wire, terminals, a fuse and holder. Check it out!
https://www.mikesinventions.etsy.com

48 Comments

  1. Fox_gaming on December 29, 2020 at 10:40 pm

    can i use a lifepo4 batteries with a bms on a ups?

  2. Nowkhar De Tal Abad We on December 29, 2020 at 10:41 pm

    Mere ups ka out put 3 se 4 impire hai kya me ups k sath 12v 10 ampire charger b laga sakta ho! 1 sath ???? Bettery ko fast charging k lea

  3. Austin Michael on December 29, 2020 at 10:41 pm

    The issue I see with this is that if the power goes out usually the node that supplies internet to your home goes out too since most of them aren’t on battery backups. I have a 6 kilowatt Eaton 9PX 6K at home with 2 EBM’s on it. There are 75 12 volt 5 Ah batteries in that sucker which can run my normal load of 1200 watts for about 4.5 hours. The issue is that our node isn’t backed up at the ISP level so if the power goes out the internet goes with it regardless of what I can do in the home.

  4. aa999xyz on December 29, 2020 at 10:42 pm

    is that internal charger have enough capacity for those big batteries

  5. Sergio Gonzalez on December 29, 2020 at 10:43 pm

    Thanks for the great content 👍

  6. GET T on December 29, 2020 at 10:46 pm

    Thanks for the excel tutorial.

  7. Blain N on December 29, 2020 at 10:46 pm

    Great video! I’m with you on off-grid power.

  8. Jose Gonzalez on December 29, 2020 at 10:48 pm

    I did the same thing a while back. This set up works but one thing has to be considered, UPS’ are not design to work for extended periods of time. They have very small heatsinks on the Mosfet/transistors and most don’t even include a fan to keep them cool so they end up getting damaged by overheating. Of course to help on this issue you can add your own fan.

  9. BRUHItsABunny on December 29, 2020 at 10:48 pm

    I see some comments that on this video that sparked some further questions, if anyone could help out that would be great

    1. I saw a comment saying that the lower amperage charging system inside the UPS would end up slowly reducing the batteries’ lifespan. Now, I don’t think that is the case since it would basically be trickle charging and I don’t know of any case where trickle charging is capable of doing such harm

    I suppose unless the charging never stops, like when the batteries are fully charged but the UPS keeps charging.

    How do I know if my UPS automatically stops charging the batteries? The stock/regular batteries I think it always does but since it can’t estimate the approximate runtime on different batteries how do i know for sure the UPS knows they are fully charged?

    2. Are there any precautions regarding hydrogen gass that I have to keep in mind?

    3. I saw someone saying that it would be wiser to do this on a smart UPS rather than a regular one. Is that true, and if so why? Would it really be such a big difference?

    I’ve slowly been working on some plans of doing this at home, i suspect this year will be the year i push through with my plans though

    nice video btw

  10. Joshua Nerio on December 29, 2020 at 10:48 pm

    Hi, Mike & Alex, your video is brilliant! Greetings from
    Texas! With the current COVID-19 pandemic my residence has been receiving power
    outages more frequently than normal. I have reviewed your video and I would definitely
    like to execute this project. I have a CyberPower 1500va AVR laying around the house
    that would be a great candidate for this implementation. This device holds two
    physical batteries in its compartment. This means two positive cables and two
    negative cables, if you reference the video (URL below) it will provide this
    example. I would like purchase two Duracell Marine Deep Cycle Battery – Group
    size 24. If you could please provide an additional video with a wiring diagram.
    I’m trying to follow how the battery wiring is configured. I understand from
    the video that the leads from the UPS connect to the battery. However, I would like
    to see how the batteries connect in series together because in my scenario I have
    four leads in the UPS compartment. Cheers, Joshua
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LwmeohNsycE

  11. Siddharth on December 29, 2020 at 10:51 pm

    Do you want to know how I am bringing old batteries to life again let me know if you are interested to know.i saved 100’$ of doller per year just because of this hack

  12. Caesar Valenti on December 29, 2020 at 10:52 pm

    I have used a basically identical system for over 20 years. I started with two marine batteries but soon found they did not last long. I then switched to ordinary car batteries and have had much better luck…and they are cheaper. The reason: Car batteries are designed to spend virtually all of their lives at full charge….just like this UPS system. Of course, if you have many long power outages, then a marine battery may be better. Most of our outages are not that long, so the batteries spend most of their lives fully charged.

  13. AIX SA on December 29, 2020 at 10:54 pm

    Your ups internal charging circuit isn’t going to keep up with those batteries long term. You will end up damaging them.

  14. Jeremy Poulin on December 29, 2020 at 10:54 pm

    Be careful of using flooded lead acid batteries due to off gassing.

  15. Joel Ledezma on December 29, 2020 at 10:55 pm

    We would like to see the wiring. Why he just connected the orange (positive?) to the UPS only? Where does the "negative" go?

  16. CoolRaul on December 29, 2020 at 10:55 pm

    So no one asked why you did not use lithium batteries

  17. Rahul Hingonekar on December 29, 2020 at 10:56 pm

    Good hack but make sure it’s not become a ticking bomb, btw I have a BR1500G-IN and it’s internal battery just dead today after 3 years and I am thinking to do some hack as you did but really scared 😃😃

  18. Delmar Schmidt on December 29, 2020 at 10:58 pm

    You really need to test the runtime as you will make a revolting discovery. The UPS ignores actual battery voltage and instead calculates the AC load based on the standard battery capacity.
    It will shutdown at the same time regardless of my many batteries you connect.

    I contacted APC to see if there is a method to change the default battery capacity. Found nothing in the PowerChute software, and running a self-test has no affect.
    Only fix is to swap with a XL version factory designed for external batteries.

  19. iamsmartmethinks on December 29, 2020 at 10:59 pm

    You had me at off thebfridge

  20. David Witte on December 29, 2020 at 11:02 pm

    I’m looking into doing a similar project as this but I’m not very familiar with battery specs… Here’s my question, the APC uses a 12 volt battery. How is the APC compatible with 24 volts? It seems like the 24 volts would not work with the APC inverter. Could the APC over or under charge the 24 volt battery?

  21. Chuck Brown on December 29, 2020 at 11:03 pm

    How long it last when it fully charge and on pure battery mode no grid charging batteries ? Have you tried deep cycle batteries they hold the charge longer ?

  22. Daimon Wilcox on December 29, 2020 at 11:03 pm

    If you use the apc cable and reset the battery it will learn the new battery

  23. toobglued on December 29, 2020 at 11:04 pm

    likely this thing has internal thermal protection it it runs too long on DC

  24. svtcontour on December 29, 2020 at 11:06 pm

    Dont these deep cycle batteries off gas hydrogen?

  25. kirbythebamf on December 29, 2020 at 11:07 pm

    That cable size going from series to UPS is only rated for AC current (likely 15-30amp)
    I would be very wary of running anything heavier than 30amp DC

  26. Mecanicaymas Elio Pezz on December 29, 2020 at 11:09 pm

    very danger very stupid! hack …. u r a lammer

  27. Zubair Khan on December 29, 2020 at 11:10 pm

    Hi.

    Have you considered going with a lithium battery pack

  28. T L on December 29, 2020 at 11:12 pm

    Lamest video ever. Didnt even demonstrate run time.

  29. Jethro Tull on December 29, 2020 at 11:13 pm

    My issues a somewhat similar but different. I have an solar array of 400watts. I could run some equipment in my house for 6 hours a day but cloudy weather doesn’t play well with electronics. I also need the array available if power goes out. A grid tie inverter would not achieve this and my power company would have a cow. So I drive a clean efficient sine wave inverter into the ups, if the panels shade it immediately reverts to the SLA batteries. If the sun is out the ups automatically reverts to the solar inverter and recharges the sla batts plus handles current equipment loads. No power sages… no bs deep cycle Marie bats.. to ridicules MPPT controller. The last thing I need to accomplish is an ac transfer switch for rainy days and nights. I know the is “waste” in the system but it works.

  30. Tyler Mack on December 29, 2020 at 11:13 pm

    Looks awesome! Did u test to see how long the batteries actually lasted? I’m looking for something to run my t.v. when the power goes out, and lasts long. Question on the wattage: my Tv alone is 170 watts. How was it showing your t.v. and router were only 76 watts?
    Thanks!

  31. Kalyan Bonam on December 29, 2020 at 11:13 pm

    Can i use it for my gaming pc ?

  32. Petros on December 29, 2020 at 11:13 pm

    Hello. Very good video. I have been thinking the same in my ups for a long time. The issue here is that: 1) When the ups will be in battery mode, its inverter will start to heat up. How much depends on the load that will be at the output. 2) If it works for a long time, or many hours then the mofet is most likely to break down. The manufacturer has calculated a specific time based on the output load and the autonomy of the battery. If you go through this then it is most likely to burn the ups as well. In my opinion, if someone makes such a modification like this, to increase the amperage of the battery by almost twice and not more. For example, if it is 9Ah to go to 18, etc. This will make the inverter less likely to burn out.Again a very nice project, greetings from beautiful Greece!

  33. Respect & Peace on December 29, 2020 at 11:14 pm

    hi Mike, thanks for sharing. Q: where to you put the 10amp inline fuse?

  34. Siminfrance on December 29, 2020 at 11:14 pm

    Thanks for the video,
    I was wondering, how safe is it to run a UPS for much longer than they are designed for?
    Don’t they get very, very hot eventually as they are no fans?

  35. Senjoro Nie on December 29, 2020 at 11:15 pm

    The big problem I’ve run into is voltage drop along the feeder lines from the battery to the UPS DC input, and also within the internal wiring supplying the inverter. I’m running an APC Smart-UPS 750 and under high load (250+ watts) the DC voltage across the inverter input (on the board itself) can be as much as 0.6V less than that measured at the battery terminals. It causes the UPS to think the battery is about to die even though it’s not even close. I replaced the external feeders with 10awg and this reduced the voltage drop to about 0.3V, and my next step is to replace the internal wiring with 10awg as well as eliminate as many of the spade connectors as possible as they are all sources of higher resistance and therefore voltage drop.

     I’d expect the 16awg extension cord you’re using to suffer quite a lot of voltage drop; what, if any, issues have you had with that in your case?

    edit: Be advised, when you calculate the number of amps using I = P / V , the number you get is the *average current* drawn, averaged over time. In reality, the current drawn from the battery is not a constant current, it is a pulsating current consisting of periods of current draw, and periods where little current is drawn. Thus, I = P / V tells you 25A, the average current over time is 25A, but because the current is pulsating, the pulses will actually be well in excess of 25A, and as a result, voltage drop will be higher than you would expect if you simply used V = I / R without further consideration.

    To illustrate, consider a constant 2A through a resistance of 1 ohm. By P = I^2 * R, the power dissipation is 4 watts. Now consider a pulsating current with periods of 4A (on) and 0A (off) at a 50% duty cycle. The current averaged over time is 2A. By P = I^2 * R we see that power dissipation is 16 watts while the power is on. At a 50% duty cycle, power dissipation is 8 watts, twice as much as a constant current of 2A, even though the average current over time is still 2A. Your UPS draws a current that pulsates in time with the switching transistors, it does *not* draw a steady, constant current and this definitely does impact performance (voltage drop and power loss as heat higher than expected, battery life shorter than expected).

    Finally, as to heat issues, I run my APC Smart-UPS 750 on the 7.5AH internal battery paralleled with a pair of marine batteries (in series) of 115AH. Properly managed (turn off unnecessary lights, etc.) the unit will run for 18 to 24 hours. The transformer does get warm (temperature exceeds 80°C) without additional cooling. I put a 3-inch computer fan onto one of the case vents and as far as I can tell, even at high load the transformer temperature (external, measured on the iron core) never exceeds 40°C, generally doesn’t exceed 30°C. That is quite acceptable and in my opinion active air cooling is highly effective at removing waste heat and keeping temperatures in check.

    Ideally, to minimize these issues, all of the wiring in the low voltage circuit should be replaced with 10 awg, and all blade/spade quick connects or other plugs should be removed and/or replaced with soldered connections, including soldering directly to the transformer’s connection tabs. On my UPS the low voltage circuit contains exactly nine (9) connection points, each of which is a point of higher resistance and therefore voltage loss. Eliminating just two of these and replacing just the external feeders with 10 awg cut voltage drop by half and resulted in longer runtime and lower waste heat load. I will be replacing the rest of the wiring with 10awg this weekend. Easy to do and no reason not to.

  36. Mainta Man on December 29, 2020 at 11:18 pm

    Tq. Klau pkai batery long hours only apc hanya sepuluh jam tv boleh dihidupkan, kipas dan lampu. I try apc 1000w. My house no electricity supply i need lamp, fan and television. And small else.

  37. Mitch Anthony on December 29, 2020 at 11:18 pm

    Looks like a great idea thanks

  38. ForcedToSignUp on December 29, 2020 at 11:18 pm

    LOL all of that for stepped sine wave. Do it on a Smart UPS at least!

  39. Björn Initial Production on December 29, 2020 at 11:20 pm

    Hey i found this in the used market. APC Smart-UPS SC 1000VA and thinking of adding 2 of these (also used market but new i box) Fiamm 10-års blybatteri (lead-acid) 12FGL42
    EAN 5710927030145 12v 42Ah total cost 200 usd this would in theory if your hack works for this setup be stronger then anything new i can buy. Would the combination work. it has 4 x 6v batteries in series by default as far as i can tell.

  40. Vipin Akbar on December 29, 2020 at 11:21 pm

    Thanks for the video, I liked your idea and now plan to execute on my BR1000G. Its internal battery are dead. Will the current from APC be sufficient for charging high capacity batteries? Any limitations to consider while choosing the battery size?

  41. Joel Walgenbach on December 29, 2020 at 11:22 pm

    Do you worry about hydrogen gas generation as those are wet cell batteries?

  42. pipo declown on December 29, 2020 at 11:22 pm

    Hmm…..I think the minute counter is adjusted to the original battery and won’t notice that there is a larger battery then before. I have a car battery on my backup APC 700ES but it gives me only about 13 minutes before it’s shuts down my PC. It just don’t know about the bigger battery.

  43. John Lammers on December 29, 2020 at 11:22 pm

    So … why would a set of three 8volt golfcart batteries not provide 24volts? 3×8=24 last time I checked.

  44. Tim M on December 29, 2020 at 11:23 pm

    This is a really dumb idea. The UPS is not rated to handle the DC fault current. DC Fault=welded contact=extreme over heating=fire=lose of house. Insurance claim will be denied due to a non listed UL device causing the fire. All of this inside a wooden enclosure. Not sure what your background is, but it’s not electrical engineering. PS, also wait for the lawsuits to hit you.

  45. Mikes Inventions on December 29, 2020 at 11:29 pm

    Still going strong after 7 months. The UPS charging circuit brought the batteries all the way up after several days, and since the batteries are so large, it’s as if the batteries are on a trickle charger, like they would be anyway. The minute counter on the display is still meaningless, because the UPS has no idea how big the batteries are, but it is somewhat useful for judging relative charge. The minutes just tick down at a much slower pace. I haven’t needed to use them for more than about an hour or so since I installed them, and the internal charger on the UPS worked just fine. Now I plan to use my large auto charger if I run them down a lot so as not to strain the UPS charger circuit. So far so good… Stay tuned.

  46. pete konne on December 29, 2020 at 11:30 pm

    hello mike. great video but i have one slight problem. I have the same unit and have it set up the same way. I need something to last a long time to keep my coal stove running. I’m gone 10 hours a day and if the power goes out, the stove is out. so I wanted to see how long it would last on battery power. when i unplugged it from the wall it went to battery power. The time meter was at 55 minutes. after about an hour the meter went to 0 and the unit shut off. Had a volt meter on the battery;s and still showed 25.4 volts. put my battery charger on the battery’s. it took only 5 minutes to bring the battery’s back up to full charged. Turned unit back on and the meter said 0. So I put the original battery’s back in the unit and let it charge. the next day I did the same routine to see how long it would last. It lasted about an hour, the battery meter counter went to 0 and the unit shut off.. I took the battery’s out of the unit and tested with volt meter. Both battery’s still were charged at 24 volts. My question is ,,,,, is that meter some kind of memory timer that will only let the unit operate for a certain amount of time and is there any way to reset it or shut it off.. Give it a try and see if this happens to yours. Any help would be a great help. Thanks Ed.

  47. AD Electronic Teardowns on December 29, 2020 at 11:34 pm

    It’s 20 AH to give a higher AH rating, that’s all.

  48. kuruki zen on December 29, 2020 at 11:35 pm

    can you make a list and keen details of what materials did you use..(cause im not a techy person)
    i want to build this to backup my PC. ^_^ thanks!

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